mnswrmagazine:

ON MNSWR.COM:
Bergdorf Goodman AW14 Business Lookbook
Esteemed fashion retailer Bergdorf Goodman presented its Fall/Winter 2014 offering, featuring brands with a strong heritage in tailoring   0 SHARES Share on Facebook Tweet on Twitter

mnswrmagazine:

ON MNSWR.COM:

Bergdorf Goodman AW14 Business Lookbook

Esteemed fashion retailer Bergdorf Goodman presented its Fall/Winter 2014 offering, featuring brands with a strong heritage in tailoring   0 SHARES Share on Facebook Tweet on Twitter

(via vestirse-por-los-pies)

styleforumnet:

Pipes in Poland.
putthison:

Fake Deals
Medium has a story today on the less-than-honest business practices of discount and outlet stores. An excerpt: 

Despite common belief, outlet clothing never enters a “regular” store and is most likely produced in an entirely different factory than the “regular” clothing. A few months ago I met with some people from Banana Republic Outlet. Banana Republic has a team of people whose sole responsibility is to design and manage production for their outlet stores. Their production team was looking for new ways to diversify their outlet product-line in order to compete with H&M and Zara. It is rumored that these huge retailers have such agile supply-chains that they are able to bring new product to their stores every 2 weeks. While Banana Republic and J.Crew are not trying to compete on price with H&M, their outlet counterparts must. This means that these companies produce lower cost and lower quality clothing specifically for their outlet stores.
[…]
TJ Maxx, known for it’s off-price designer labels, finds itself in a similar position. Ever notice that TJ’s will have a surplus of Calvin Klein, or Rachel Roy, or Elie Tahari clothing? This happens when TJ Maxx brokers a licensing deal with one of these brands. In this situation, the brand (ex: Calvin Klein) agrees to let TJ Maxx produce clothing with their label on it in return for a percentage, usually between 5-20% of the wholesale price of the garment. To put this in perspective, in 2012 Calvin Klein reported that “licensed products currently represent slightly over 50% of global retail sales.” At that time, licensing alone accounted for more than $3.8 billion in CK sales.
Licensing can be a great situation for the brand because they do not have to manage sourcing, production, or shipping. TJ Maxx, or the licensee, manages all of the nitty-gritty stuff, and makes the product in their factories at prices that they control. Then, they put the reputable brand label on the clothing and write that company a check. These branded garments end up at discount retailers and consumers buy them thinking that they’ve just scored an awesome Calvin Klein blazer.

You can read the rest of the article here. To figure out which outlet stores are worth visiting, you can read Jesse’s post from four years ago (as far as I know, all those recommendations are still good). He also has a great post on diffusion lines and licensed clothing. 

putthison:

Fake Deals

Medium has a story today on the less-than-honest business practices of discount and outlet stores. An excerpt: 

Despite common belief, outlet clothing never enters a “regular” store and is most likely produced in an entirely different factory than the “regular” clothing. A few months ago I met with some people from Banana Republic Outlet. Banana Republic has a team of people whose sole responsibility is to design and manage production for their outlet stores. Their production team was looking for new ways to diversify their outlet product-line in order to compete with H&M and Zara. It is rumored that these huge retailers have such agile supply-chains that they are able to bring new product to their stores every 2 weeks. While Banana Republic and J.Crew are not trying to compete on price with H&M, their outlet counterparts must. This means that these companies produce lower cost and lower quality clothing specifically for their outlet stores.

[…]

TJ Maxx, known for it’s off-price designer labels, finds itself in a similar position. Ever notice that TJ’s will have a surplus of Calvin Klein, or Rachel Roy, or Elie Tahari clothing? This happens when TJ Maxx brokers a licensing deal with one of these brands. In this situation, the brand (ex: Calvin Klein) agrees to let TJ Maxx produce clothing with their label on it in return for a percentage, usually between 5-20% of the wholesale price of the garment. To put this in perspective, in 2012 Calvin Klein reported that “licensed products currently represent slightly over 50% of global retail sales.” At that time, licensing alone accounted for more than $3.8 billion in CK sales.

Licensing can be a great situation for the brand because they do not have to manage sourcing, production, or shipping. TJ Maxx, or the licensee, manages all of the nitty-gritty stuff, and makes the product in their factories at prices that they control. Then, they put the reputable brand label on the clothing and write that company a check. These branded garments end up at discount retailers and consumers buy them thinking that they’ve just scored an awesome Calvin Klein blazer.

You can read the rest of the article here. To figure out which outlet stores are worth visiting, you can read Jesse’s post from four years ago (as far as I know, all those recommendations are still good). He also has a great post on diffusion lines and licensed clothing

kleidsam:

The new three pc blue Prince of Wales suit by suitsupply - topped with a vintage woolen tie, a golden collar pin and flowery cufflinks. 

(via ineedmoreties)

(Source: pinterest.com, via thetieguy)

louis-walton:

An example of hand rolled edges. These edges have smooth and consistent raised rolls on the edge, it makes a nice border. Rolled ages can also be done by machine. Usually machine rolled edges will have puckering where the thread enters and exits the fabric. It isn’t a bad thing and it doesn’t necessarily look worse than edges rolled by hand. I find that it comes down to cost and the availability of someone who posses the skill. It take a long time to learn to do it, the people who can are not cheap, and there relatively few people who are willing to do it. #handmade #artisan #louiswalton

louis-walton:

An example of hand rolled edges. These edges have smooth and consistent raised rolls on the edge, it makes a nice border. Rolled ages can also be done by machine. Usually machine rolled edges will have puckering where the thread enters and exits the fabric. It isn’t a bad thing and it doesn’t necessarily look worse than edges rolled by hand. I find that it comes down to cost and the availability of someone who posses the skill. It take a long time to learn to do it, the people who can are not cheap, and there relatively few people who are willing to do it. #handmade #artisan #louiswalton

louis-walton:


What goes into a quality bow tie? It is surprisingly simple. Start with quality fabric of the correct weight. Fabric is important because it effects how the knot will dimple and bow folds on the ends. The lining can help with this but heavy lining makes a stiff tie and a fat unappealing knot….